2012, Sept 15 Cliff Head North to Moore River (via Green Head, Jurien Bay, Dynamite Bay, Cervantes, Pinnacles)



Wildflower covered sand dunes overlooking Dynamite Bay

Trip Meter Reading Start –  5244

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  5507
Total Km Travelled –  263 km

Filled Up Jurien Bay
ULP $1.629/ litre; 35.6 litres; $58.00

Accommodation
Free camp Moore River, marked in Camps 5 as 363 – clean small rest area 33km N of Yanchep NP.  Has a new dump site.  Get there early as it is small and has few areas to park.

Comments – Luke


Crikey, look what I found dad!

Today we drove to Leeman and had a look around then drove to Green Head and did a little walk.  I went up a big sand dune and slid down it after that we went to Jurien Bay and had lunch.  We also drove down to the Pinnacles which is old coral sticky out of the ground.  I also got a pinnacles coin.  After that we arrived at Moore River and set up camp for the night.

Comments – Mum and Dad

The drive south along Indian Ocean Coast road was beautiful and very unique.  The heathlands, hills of yellow wildflowers as far as the eye could see and blackboy forests was amazing; in the backdrop were massive white sand dunes reaching up into a blue sky followed by a turquoise coloured reef and coastal system.

Huge white sand dunes dwarf the heathland to the east of the Indian Coast Road, WA

We explored coastal villages of Leeman, Greenbay, Jurien Bay and Cervantes.  All had beautiful family friendly beach areas with wide paths along the esplanade; safe playgrounds, and excellent cafes and facilities with views to the water. 



Luke on the public jetty at Jurien Bay

Late in the afternoon we called into the Pinnacles.  Pinnacles ( Desert Discovery ) rising mysteriously from the sand dunes 250 km north of Perth within the Nambung National Park are thousands of limestone pillars amongst the surrounding heath.  The park is protected and a world renowned biodiversity hotspot where an extraordinary range of wildlife and habitats lie within easy reach o each other.  We decided on the 1.2 km Desert View Walk which is very easy an flat; for those who wish to drive the 4km one way loop, you will need to unhook your van and leave in the carpark.  Cost in was $11.00 regardless if you have a national parks pass or not.

2012, Sept 14 - Geraldton to Cliff Head North (via Mullewa / Miningew)

Trip Meter Reading Start –  4968
Trip Meter Reading Finish –  5244
Total Km Travelled –  276 km

Filled Up Drummond Cove, Geraldton
ULP $1.51/ litre; 34.89 litres; $53.00

Accommodation
Cliff Head North is a parking area 51 km north of Leeman or 6km south of Brand Hway junction on the Indian Ocean drive (south of Dongara and marked 436 Camps 5).  If you want water views, you will get them here with most sites under 20 metres from the edge of the water; drop toilets available; our site had its own fireplace; extremely quiet.


Mark relaxing at camp; Luke finds an animal skull (fancy that!)

Comments – Luke

Today we headed east to Mullewa to Mingenew for lunch we also saw hectares of wheat and connolour then, we went west back down the coast and arrived at cliff head and set up camp there were heaps of piles of sea grass at night we toasted marsh mellows on the fire then went to bed.
Comments – Mum and Dad
We left Geraldton and took State Route 123 out to Mullewa and then south approx 90 kms to Mingenew through miles and miles of farmland following the wildflower way.  We had coffee at a night little rustic coffee shop in Mingenew and spoke to some of the locals.  Pretty little rustic town with old world charm.  54kms west to the Coast of Mingenew we settled down for the night at a great free camp at Cliff Head North.




A desert pea on the roadside

Local pub at Mingenew



A lone dolphin swims past our campsite on sunset....priceless!!!

 



2012, Sept 10/13 Kalbarri to Geraldton (4 days)

Luke explores the Pink Lake - water is extremely salty

Trip Meter Reading Start –  4559
Reading at Geraldton –  4727 (168 km)
Trip Meter Reading Finish –  4968
Total Km Travelled –  409 km

Filled Up Geraldton ($0.15 per litre discount)
Gas $ 0.89/ litre; 62.46 litres; $56.15; ULP $1.51/ litre; 60.57 litres; $73.46 ($129.71)
Accommodation

Drummond Cove Caravan Park $30 per night (x2 adults). Situated 13km from Geraldton.  Unfortunately we booked this online, thinking it was closer to the CBD.  The website looks better than what it actually is and we had the misfortune of getting a site backing onto the highway (very noisy).  One positive is that the ablutions were extremely clean and the staff friendly with a shop stocked with essentials including alcohol.  For those with dogs, it is also pet friendly.

Comments – Luke
We did lots of shopping, went to Mcdonalds.  I got to go to a push bike shop and fell in love with a Red Line Pro Line bike.  I didn’t want to leave it but I might get for Christmas.  We also got a new windscreen fitted.  We also went to the HMAS Sydney memorial were a Sydney ship and a German ship fort out at sea and all died.  Geraldton looks like Newcastle.

Wheat farms north of Geraldton

Comments – Mum and Dad
What a beautiful drive from Kalbarri along Grey and Point Gregory Roads south to Northhampton.  The wildflowers and coastal cliffs were spectacular. 

Rockpools south of Kalbarri

We took our time stopping along the way to view Red Bluff and Pink Lake.  The colour of the lagoon known as Pink Lake is due to bacteria (Dunaliella salina) trapped in the salt granules; this provides a rich source of Beta Carotene which is harvested from small ponds.  As the sun sinks, the lagoon changes colour from mauve or pink to a slightly darker purple, so weird!.

We stopped the lunch at Point Gregory which is a beautiful fishing village complete with natural harbour surrounded by 5km of exposed reef and large jetty.  Simply gorgeous!

Me and mum having lunch at Port Gregory

Further on we passed through Northampton on the North Coastal Highway stopping in at Coronation Park for a look where the Tarplees had camped.  Gorgeous little camp on the beach, fairly protected.


Drive out to Coronation Park

Set up camp at the park we booked online.  Over the next few days we did what normal people do for a change and spent time organising for Mario to get fitted with a new windscreen and an inspection for registration; we had to extend our time here an extra day waiting on a part to be couriered in overnight from Perth. 

Apart from this we drove around the area which is alot like Newcastle with the big port and cargo boats out to sea but on a much smaller scale.   Extremely friendly place and we were very impressed by the HMAS Sydney memorial which stands out above the city itself.  This place is really going ahead and has strong industries in crayfish, wheat, farming and tourism.  Plenty to like about this place.

2012, Sept 8/9 - Murchison River to Kalbarri

Wild flowers, Kalbarri National Park

Trip Meter Reading Start –  4369

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  4559
Total Km Travelled –  190 km

Accommodation

Anchorage Caravan Park $40 per night (x2 adults and x1 child). Situated across the road from the Murchison River; really nice park; most sites have a view of the river as it is stepped up and elevated; great shower blocks (very clean)

Comments – Luke

Saturday – When we arrived at Kalbari we stayed at a campground opposite a bay.  After that me and dad went fishing.  Dad caught 5 and I caught 0 but they were all undersize.  After that me and Dad walked along a beach.  After that we went back to camp.

Sunday – Today we went to a national park and went to natures window which is a big hole through a big rock overlooking throughout a gorge.  After that we went to the z bend which is a gorge that is zig zaggi.  We also found a sign that taught us about an arthropod that looks like a scorpion.  After that we went back to camp.

Luke - Natures Window, Kalbarri National Park

Comments – Mum and Dad
Turning off onto the road to Kalbarri from the highway we saw the best of the wildflowers to date.  The landscape much greener as there is a significant wheat belt along the way as well.  The Kalbarri National Park covers 192,000 hectares and is most famous for it’s wild flowers with over 1200 plant species recorded in the park, including many species which occur nowhere else on earth.

The town itself is a picturesque relaxed seaside village not overpopulated where the main industry is fishing and tourism.  All 3 caravan parks are within walking distance to all amenities, however we chose to stay at Anchorage as the Murchison River park was booked out and it was still close to the river (we even had water views from our site). The boys took off fishing after we set up while I had a nana nap.

The next day we drove out to Kalbarri National Park to the Murchison River Gorge located on the lower reaches of the Murchison River which has cut magnificent red and white banded gorges for 80 km as it carves its way to the sea.  Tublagooda sandstone deposited over 400 million years ago here; traces of fossils on the sandstone revel first signs of terrestrial life on the planet and can be seen at many places within the gorge including Nature’s Window and the Z bend – see photos.  The walks were well signed and not too long despite the temperature being 30 degrees.   There was little water in the river, but the rock formations were stunning especially if you were there later in the day.

Z Bend Gorge, Kalbarri National Park

From the headland looking toward the town ship of Kalbarri on the Murchison River

 

 

2012, Sept 7 - Denham (Shark Bay) to Murchison River

Trip Meter Reading Start –  4072

This beach is made of shells, 5 metres deep...Holy moly!

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  4369
Total Km Travelled –  297 km

Filled Up     Roadhouse
Fuel $1.68 per litre; 34.93 litres; $60.00
Filled Up Billabong Roadhouse
Gas $ 1.25 per litre; 64.03 litres; $80.04 – previous Roadhouse was cheaper at $1.14/ ltre (DOH!)

Accommodation
Galena Bridge Murchison River – great free camp with views to the river; heavily wooded and private; this rest area is 13 km north of the Kalbarri turnoff or 115km south of Billabong Roadhouse.  There a toilets at the southern end of the bridge.  Great overnight stay before going into Kalbarri tomorrow complete with our own fire pit and cooking bbq.


Well ain't this the best free camp ever Dad! Complete with a river view

Comments – Luke
Today we stopped and had a look at shell beach there were trillions of cockols.  When we arrived at Murchison river were we set up camp we saw heaps of swans in the river after that we had a fire then went to bed.

Comments – Mum and Dad
Travelling 40kms out of Denham we called into a unique part of the Australian coastline known as Shell Beach, which is comprised of countless millions of tiny shells.  The shell build up here is 8-9 metres deep.  This is a place not to be missed; a great photo opportunity with the contrasts of a white beach and turquoise coloured waters.

Me, mum and dad sitting on a huge sand dune....I mean a shell dune about 5 metres deep!

2012, Sept 5/6 - Point Quobba to Denham (Shark Bay)

Luke hand feeding one of the 5 wild dophins at Monkey Mia

Trip Meter Reading Start –  3550

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  4072
Total Km Travelled –  522 km

Filled Up Canarvon
Gas $ 1.01 per litre; 65.52 litres; $66.76
Fuel $1.63 per litre; 23.24 litres; $38.00

Accommodation
Blue Dolphin Caravan Park $42 per night (x2 adults; x1 child)
Nice clean park which is stepped up a hill; most sites have view out over the bay.  Clean and tidy, easy walk to all local amenities.

Comments – Luke
Wednesday - This morning we left Quobba and headed to Canarvon to fill up most of the time in the car I played my PSP.  When we got to Denhem we went to Monkey Mia to see if we could get a spot there in an campground but we couldn’t so we had to go back to Denhem and set up camp after that we had a look down town and went shopping then camp back to camp.

Thursday – This morning we went to Monkey Mia and fed the dolphins.  After that we went to a shop there and bought some shells.  We also went to a big red cliff where we saw heaps of pearl shells then we went to a beach and had a look after that we went to a pub and played some pool then went back to camp.

Comments – Mum and Dad
As we had a big drive today, we were up early and out on the road by 6.30am (record for us) heading south towards Shark Bay.  The wild flowers were coming out along the way and the landscape was becoming greener the further we headed south.
 

This is a view of the stromatolites from the boardwalk
at Hamelin Pool

First stop in and along the world heritage drive was the Stromatolites located at Hamelin Pool where a boardwalk provides easy access to their marine environment.  Stromatolites are creatures which are monuments to life on Earth over 3500 million years ago when no other creatures were present on the planet; they live here in abundance in Hamelin pool, producing oxygen which changed the world...amazing!

Denham is a surprisingly beautiful, clean, small coastal village with a beautiful esplanade streetscape fronting a gorgeous bay which is home to the most secure population of dugongs in the world.  Prior to booking into accommodation we checked out Little Lagoon which is on the left of the Monkey Mia Road.  It is a picturesque shallow lagoon ideal for whiting and flathead fishing.

Thursday – we set off early in the morning to catch the first dolphin feed at 8am out at Monkey Mia (25km north east of Denham); the rangers gave an informative talk about the history of the dolphins visiting this site and about their current dolphin feeding and intergration program.  There are only 5 female dolphins in their current program which they are legally allowed to feed 3 times per day.  Luke was one of 200 people that morning that was selected to feed one of the dolphins (that’s why we call him Lucky Luke)

Top shot Mark!  A wild female dolphin coming into shore for breakfast

The weather this day was cold and windy and after standing in the water for an hour my toes were numb; thank goodness I could defrost them in the car before heading to the cafe for a warm cuppa.  By 11 the bay was calm and the sun was out; we were lucky to get out into the bay and have a couple of curious dolphins come right in close to us while catching some fish.  Even though we have seen a hundred dolphins in our lifetime, to have wild dolphins come so close to you is amazing; I reckon we spend another hour just observing them at arms length.



A curious dolphin eyeballs Mark with his camera



We had our prepacked lunch on the beach at the resort before heading back towards Denham through the Francoise Peron National Park to view the Red Cliffs looking back to Monkey Mia bay....amazing

A friendly local

Back at the ranch, we frocked up and walked down to the local most Westerly pub in Australia, the Shark Bay Hotel for a few rounds of pool, doused with a few too many drinks.  The new publican was happy with our presence and even shouted us a couple of good old aussie tracks on the jukebox.  We felt quite at home, and of course, were nearly (I say nearly) the last ones to leave (even Luke had a great time).  So if your in Denham, support the locals and get down to the pub for a feed and drinks!

Relaxing and watching the dolphins at the Monkey Mia resort

 

2012, Sept 4 - Canarvon to Point Quobba

Me and my dad having quality time strolling alon the beach at Gnarloo
Bay, north of Gnarloo Station and Point Quobba

Trip Meter Reading Start –  3288
Trip Meter Reading Finish –  3550
Total Km Travelled –  262 km

Filled Up Canarvon
Gas $ 1.01 per litre; 63.80 litres; $65.01

Accommodation
Free camp at Point Quobba south of the Lighthouse and Blowholes.  We stumbled across this place which is not marked on any maps or in the Camps 5 book.  It is a large area tucked in behind sand dunes a couple of hundred metres from the lighthouse filled with old tin shanty’s and people camping. Normally $5 per night; but the caretaker was away, so we got a spot with our own walking track to the beach for free.

Thar she blows....Point Quobba blow holes, home to
killer king waves

Comments – Luke
Today I played my PSP in the car till we got to Quobba were we set up camp behind a beach.  After that we drove to some blowholes and saw heaps of king waves ater that we drove to another campground and we also drove to another beach and walked on it.  After that we went back to camp.

Comments – Mum and Dad
Up early, we decided to travel the 73 kms north of Carnarvon (caravan in tow) out to Point Quobba to explore the Blowholes, Red Bluff, Gnarloo Station and Gnarloo Bay.

Before taking off we unhooked the van 1km south of the blowholes where a beach protected by coral reef offered a free camp for the night. 

Today was windy and sea swells were high; the blowholes did not disappoint and some water blew out up to 20 metres.  There is a sign “King Waves Kill” and today we saw one on our drive up to Red Bluff where the road runs right alongside the ocean and cliff faces.

Her comes a king wave, right on cue - watch out Mario (the falcon that is)

Heading north from the blowholes is 80km of rugged yet stunning coastline with beautiful swimming beaches and cliff faces rising over 400feet.  Passing Quobba Station (which offers camping) we pulled into Red Bluff where a shark attack occurred last week.  It is a surfers mecca and the place offers cheap camping complete with a surf shack cafe with views and opportunity to purchase essentials.  We enjoyed a hot pie heated up by one of the locals “Reid” who used to be a an old Sandy Beach resident who knew Scott Dillon who owns the surf museum in Coffs.

The road to Red Bluff, a surfers mecca and home to tiger sharks apparently

We travelled a further 20 odd km’s up through the Gnarloo Station which offers employment to anyone willing to roll up there sleeves in exchange for free accommodations, meals and a small wage.  The station farms sheep and for those young surfers wanting to work 4 hours a day then go surfing, it is a great opportunity.  Passing through the station we drove up to Gnarloo Bay, which was absolutely beautiful with white sandy beaches and turquoise waters and completely protected from the elements.  It is the size of Coral Bay times 3; stunning.

 

2012, August 18 - 29 Tom Price via Barradale via Exmouth to Yardie Homestead (Ningaloo)

Luke having a snorkel at Turquoise Bay, Ningaloo Reef

Trip Meter Start – 1408 (Tom Price)

Trip Meter Finish –  1846 (Barradale)
Total Km Travelled –  438 km

Trip Meter Start – 1846 (Barradale)
Trip Meter  Finish –  2133 (Yardie Homestead)
Total Km Travelled –  287 km

Trip Meter Start – 2133 (Yardie Homestead)

Trip Meter Finish –  2772 (Neds Camp – driving around over 10 days)

Total Km Travelled –  639 km

Filled Up Nanutarra Roadhouse
Unleaded Petrol $1.94 per litre; 65.16 litres; $127.00
Filled Up Exmouth
Unleaded Petrol $1.73.8 per litre; 17.84 litres; $31.00


Our campsite tucked in behind the dunes at Neds Camp.
 Nic having hot solar water shower

Accommodation
Yardies Homestead $38 p/n 2 adults and 1 child (powered)
Ned’s Camp Cape Haven National Park, Ningallo $14 p/night per couple + $2 p/night per child for unpowered site ($160 for 10 nights) no power; excellent drop toilets (no smell and very clean); bore water available to fill up jerry cans.

Comments – Luke
Saturday – Tom Price to Barradale - Today we travelled to Parabadu witch is a small mining town for lunch.  After that we camped next to a dryed river bed.  We made a fire and watched the shooting stars.

Luke with the remainder of his fish after a big shark took
his share - deep sea fishing on the Osso Busso, Exmouth

Sunday – Barradale to Exmouth - Today a friend of mine named Tim came in the car with us.  We met his family in Tom Price.  When we got to Exmouth we met up with his family and did some shopping.  After that we set up camp at the campground and went snorkaling I only saw one fish and one stingray.  There where also heaps of seaslugs and they skwirted heaps of there sticky nets over me that they use to catch fish, it was very hard to get off.

Monday -  Yardy Campground to Neds Camp – Today we camped behind a sandune right next to the beach.  After that we did some shopping.  Me and Jake flew his kite.  At night we went ghost crab hunting there were heaps.



Luke caught this octopus
(without the head) 5 metres
 off the beach with a hand
made spear

Tuesday – Neds Camp – Today we went snorkling at Turquioise Bay and the Oyster Stacks were we saw heaps of coral, fish and other creatures.  My favourite one was the oyster stacks because you didn’t have to go out that far and the correl (coral - good try Luke) was prettier and there were more coulofal (colourful (good try luke) fish.  At night I went ghost crabbing with my dad.

Wednesday 22 – Wednesday 29 August – Neds Camp – We went snorkling again saw heaps of other fish.  I also met a boy and a girl named Hugh and Jessinter; we went ghost crab looking again.  I also met some Italian kids and went fishing with them.  We also caught a shark with a pomy man and he cooked it up for us.  We also caught 2 big octopus with another man.

Comments – Mum and Dad


 Snorkelling at Oyster Stacks

It was a 700 km plus trip from Tom Price out to Exmouth; so we decided to break it up and spend a night free camping at Barradale.  Dropped into Parapardoo to stock up on drinkies; locals were holding a market and Luke got a couple of $2 DVD's for the car; Free camp was a nice private bush setting.  We met up with the family of 7 from Nelson's Bay that we ran into at Karajini; Tim their only son travelled with us the next day for the final 300 km into Exmouth.  We all camped at the Yardie Homestead that night which is about 6km from the Cape Haven (Ningaloo Reef) National Park and decided to try our luck at the gate first thing in the morning.  Accommodation in the National Park is very popular in the winter months in WA.  So at 5.30am I took my coffee and book, left the boys in bed and headed down to the rangers gate waiting for them to open at 8am.  I was 3rd in line then by 7am there were 11 cars, campers and motorhomes behind me.  After the ranger radioed all the camps down the coast, 19 places were available, and I got to pick our camp and of course I chose Neds which I was told was the better of the camps including Mesa.  I paid the $11 entry and drove to meet our hosts Kerry and Steve who put us on site 15 (next door to.......yep, Al and Yap (can you believe it!!!!!).  Driving back I woke the boys and we headed down to the park to set up besides our old friends from Coffs Harbour who couldn't believe we were there when they turned up after stocking up in town.



Scrim (the chef) and Luke catch a reef
shark off the beach (Neds Camp) mmm....

Happy hour is at 5.30 after a hard day of snorkelling and fishing...ahhhh

Parrot fish feeding at Oyster Stacks (Ningaloo)

We decided to spend 10 nights here; so much to see and do; fishing, snorkelling, relaxing and of course happy hour at 5.30 every afternoon on the sand dune.  We had the fortune of having a 2 hat chef (backpacker dude) from England camping with little money, but was awesome at cooking the fish the boys were catching....first night we had fish in a white wine and fennel cream sauce with twice cooked fries with sea salt and rosemary....unbelievable.  This place is the only place in Oz you can walk straight off the beach into the reef filled with fish and corals.  No need to catch a boat here.  Hope you like the photos...

New friends - Mark, Me, Scrim (2 hat chef from England), Rochelle, Andrew and Lianna

Mark filling up jerry cans with teenage emus in tow looking for any spillage and a drink

The Italian Family we spent the day fishing with.  They were estatic they caught this Pike
off Lakeside.  Sandro and Raeffa and their 3 lovely children are from Rome.

Gorge at Yardie Creek.  Most southern end of Cape Range National Park.  The waters are
filled with turtles, stingray and fish.  This is also home to the black footed wallaby.

 

We came across a native monitor at camp dining on a dead king brown snake.

Nicole and Luke observing the hundreds of fish at Turquoise Bay

Luke and his new friends from Italy find a rock that looks like Australia....Luke makes sure Tassie is not left out

Coral at Oyster Stacks

 

A male emu looking after his chick