Wednesday 25th July 2012 Fitzroy Crossing to Derby

Trip Meter Reading Start – 8897
Trip Meter Reading Finish – 9169
Total Km Travelled –  272 km
Filled up Fitzroy Crossing 41.6 litres @ $1.779 (unleaded) $74.00
Filled up Derby 35.56 litres @ $1.745 (unleaded) $62.05

Comments -  Luke Baker

On our way 2 Derby we counted how far the straits were, the longest strait was 17.5km long.  When we got 2 Derby we stayed at a campground where we met up with Nan and Pop again.

Comments – Mum and Dad

Driving into Derby we were impressed.  It was a tidy place with nice facilities and services.  Many comments from other travellers were ‘there’s nothing there’; I guess we are much easier pleased.  The morning started off cold (enough for a lightweight jacket) then by midday it was about 33 degrees and burning hot in the sun.

We opted for a powered site at the Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park (only park in Derby where kids could stay); the owner was not helpful and was very rude.  Had there been another park to go to we would have told him to shove it. 

Tuesday 24th July 2012 Fitzroy Crossing

Trip Meter Reading Start – 8897

Can you spot the crocodile in this photo?

Trip Meter Reading Finish – 8897
Total Km Travelled – 0 km

Comments -  Luke Baker


Pub rules at the Fitzroy Crossing Pub

Today we had a look at an aboriginal art gallery where there were saw tooth shark snouts and fantastic paintings.  After that we went two fitsroyd pub and had a game of pool.  I one again.  We also went on the fitseroyd river cruise and saw heaps of brilliant rock formations and fresh water crocs.

Comments – Mum and Dad
Today we cruised and got some information from a beautiful local aboriginal lady, Raeleen at the Tourist office.  She was so gorgeous and helpful; we spent a bit of time talking to her about her family; her country and way of life.  We were so impressed by the place; it is the people and the river that make it.  So many warned us to see the gorge and get out.  I think they are scared of seeing so many aboriginal people living here.....well guess what, they have been here for 40 million years and were fortunate enough not to be extinguished by early explorers and settlers.

We had a great experience being the minority for a change; playing pool and having a drink with the locals at the Crossing Inn.  Out of 50 patrons, 8 of us were white, and we did not feel intimidated at all.  The locals were very kind and courteous to us.  The Crossing Inn sits on the original site on the banks of the mighty Fitzroy River and is the oldest established hotel in the entire Kimberley region.  It was a really nice experience.

Onwards to Geiki Gorge which they locals have rightly put forward to have it renamed to it’s form aboriginal name.  By the way it was named after somebody who had never stepped on Australian soil, so the name change, in our opinion, is appropriate.  National Parks run the boat cruise which sets a family back $62 which is fantastic value for those on budgets.

The photos tell it all....enjoy!

Geiki Gorge, WA

Monday 23rd July 2012 Warnum to Fitzroy Crossing

Trip Meter Reading Start – 8382
Trip Meter Reading Finish – 8897
Total Km Travelled – 515km

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today we thought we were gonna run out of petrol so we pulled over into a small free camp area about 100km out of Fitseroyd crossing.  We had to get some petrol off a man camping there.  We got to Fitseroyd crossing at dark and we stayed at a caravan park right next 2 fitseroyd river.

Comments – Mum and Dad

Today we checked out late (12 noon) to catch up on some phone calls and emails while we had service.  That made us late getting to Fitzroy Crossing which was a long drive with never ending straights.  For some reason the car wasn’t switching over from the petrol tank to the lpg and with 3 km to go in fuel, Mark was lucky enough to pull into a free camp 100km out of Fitzroy Crossing.  We bought some fuel off a couple of kind grey nomads which got us into camp with Mum and Dad safely.....phew!  We checked in at the Fitzroy Lodge $30 per night for unpowered and $5 per child.  A bit exey I think for unpowered but the park and facilities were nice and clean and just out of town (so very quiet)

Sunday 22nd July 2012 Warnum – exploring Bungle Bungles

Trip Meter Reading Start –  8080
Trip Meter Reading Finish –  8382
Total Km Travelled – 302 km

Look at these little beauties!!!

Filled up at Warnum unleaded $1.77.9/Ltr  37.10L $66

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today we took the falcon 4wding covering about 200km of dirt road where we crossed 10 wet and 57 dry creek beds; some where very deep and rocky.  We did variarse walks through out the Bungle Bungles, my favourite one was the Echidna chasm where you had to walk through a very narrow gap through the mountains.  I felt like IndiAnna Jones.

Comments – Mum and Dad

Well, seriously we had no idea what we were really in for (road conditions that is) as not many people drive into the Bungle Bungles in a Ford AWD, however after being convinced by Bill and Rodney (the two WA locals we met at Kununurra), we were going to shit it in, we drove, fingers crossed from camp at 7am this morning.

Entrance to Echidna Chasm

Turkey Creek to the entrance into the Bungles off the Northern Highway was 52 kms of smoothe sailing (took 30 minutes); once we turned off the next 53 kms (took 1.5 hours) was corrugated dusty unsealed road with 10 very wet creek crossings (the deepest came up to the bottom of the doors.  The falcon (Ford Territory Ghia) did not let us down; we were invincible and thought we were pretty good seeing our ‘ford’ could keep up with all the other $50 k plus tosser cars.....then we saw a Nissan X’Trail (god luv them, they had made it too)  All we could think about was that had we had to go on a tour it would have cost the 5 of us $1200 and the Ford saved it for us...woo hoo. So to all you families, if you have an AWD and the road conditions are favourable and you are a competent driver, HAVE A GO...if it looks iffy, turn around and go back or watch another car go through to guage how deep.  The lucky thing was that there were no deep holes and  being mid July, it hadn’t rained for some time.

Walking toward Picaninniy Lookout along stone eroded river beds

Luke shows erosion at its best at Purnulul Nat Park

Anyway, enough about the Ford...as we only had the day, we drove the extra 26 kms to Cathedral Gorge within the Purnululu national park before  exploring Echidna Chasm which was 19km in the other direction....the pictures don’t do this place justice, and a flight wouldn’t either as you have to walk through the place to get a real sense of how big the domes are.....don’t miss this if you are up this way; save for a tour if you have to.

Cathedral Gorge, Purnululu National Park WA (Mark, Luke, Bruce, Betty)

Saturday 21st July 2012 Kununurra to Warnum (Turkey Creek)

Trip Meter Reading Start – 7867

Trip Meter Reading Finish – 8080
Total Km Travelled – 213km
Filled up at Kununurra unleaded $1.77.9/Ltr  37.10L $66

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today we went to Warnum where we camped we met up with Nan and pop again.  At night a huge Braman Bull wandered through the campground also a nice blue cattle dog came and had dinner with us.

Comments – Mum and Dad

We made a joint decision to book 2 nights at Turkey Creek which is 52 km from the entrance to the Bungle Bungles as we could get powered sites which were also cheaper than the park at Purnululu (the entrance) and power up.  With mum and dad sharing fuel costs it made the day trip to the Bungles the next day more economical anyway.

The caravan park behind the roadhouse was clean and tidy; run by backpackers from what we could see; you can get fuel, groceries (very exxy though!!)and takeaway meals from the roadhouse.  There is an Art gallery down the road where you can purchase artworks directly from the Aboriginal artists.  Grant Kenny runs his Slingair Heliwork operations from here as well, if you want to fly over the Bungle Bungles.

Mum and Dad's (Bruce and Betty's) trusty Ford Transit. 

Friday 20th July 2012 Kununurra - exploring Emma Gorge

Erosion patterns & formations - Emma Gorge

Trip Meter Reading Start – 7613

Trip Meter Reading Finish – 7867
Total Km Travelled – 244km
Filled up at Kununurra unleaded $1.77/Ltr  26.76L $48; Gas $1.15.9/Ltr  64.3L $74.62

Comments -  Luke Baker
Today we did a 1.7 km walk at Emma Gorge.  We saw heaps of rocks with ripple marks formed over many millions of years ago.  It looked like croc skin.  We had a swim at the water fall and saw a water monitor laying on the rocks.  After that we had a picnic lunch then we drove to El Questro Homestead witch is off the Gibb River Road where we had to cross many rivers in our car.

Comments – Mum and Dad

Today we decided to explore the eastern part of the Gibb River Road including Emma Gorge and El Questro.  And yes, we drive an AWD (Ford Territory) which everyone we have spoken to will be fine on this part of the road.  From Kununurra was 60k of bitumen and then we had about 23 km of sealed and unsealed road into Emma Gorge.  As the gorge  is part of El Questro you have to pay $10 per person.  Ma and Pa paid the bill ($20) while we headed out of sight to the track (so naughty, but $50, what a crock).  The walk was a moderate 2km and you had to scramble over some rocks at some points.  Closed shoes are best, but Mark insisted on wearing his Japanese riding boots (thongs); the water was unbelievable clear and clean...plus really cold.  The first pool was very blue and so inviting we couldn’t resist a swim; the main gorge pool was an extra 200m along, and breathtaking; we haven’t seen anything like it...of course we had to have a swim as cold as it was; Im sure they do the Norsca ads here....

Go the falcon!!!! River crossing into El Questro Township off the GIBB RIVER RD. 
In good conditions your AWD can get to these places ...Just take it easy.

Thursday 19th July 2012 Kununurra - exploring Wyndham

Trip Meter Reading Start – 7360

Trip Meter Reading Finish – 7613

Total Km Travelled – 253km

Filled up at Wyndham unleaded $1.70/Ltr  54.12L $92

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today we went to Kununurra and had a haircut than we went 2 Wyndom and went bird watching.  We also had a look at parries farm.

Comments – Mum and Dad

Iron Ore stores that are transported by
 rail out onto boats for export

After speaking to locals who advised our trusty ford (AWD) could handle the back road from Wyndham to Kununurra via Parry’s Farm, we headed out for another full day with the olds (that is Betty and Bruce (maw and paw); sharing fuel costs and making sure we had the engel filled with plenty of refreshments (including beer).  

Wyndham is 100 km from Kununurra and has a port that services the cattle industry, the Ord River Irrigation Project and many mining companies.  The Cambridge gulf is home to some of the largest saltwater crocodiles in the world. 

The caravan park in Wyndham was lovely and shady with a pool and good facilities if you want to stay there.

Before we set off to view the lookout we popped into a little cafe to get a coffee, however the food just looked so spectacular and fairly priced, we opted to stay for an early lunch instead of having sausage sandwiches.  It was a great choice.....Anyone visiting the area would not be disappointed and we were told at midday, you line up to get a seat.  Try the mango cheesecake...OMG

Overlooking the town at the summit of the Bastion Ranges, 350 metres above sea level, is the Five Rivers lookout.  From here we viewed the Ord, Forrest, King, Durack and Pentecost Rivers entering the Cambridge Gulf. It was spectacular.  Fellow Australians, we have the most amazing natural river systems in the world...get up here and see it for yourselves.

Via the back road to Kununurra we stopped off at the Marglu Billabong, and if your a bird watcher, you will be in heaven.  I must say, I am not into birds personally, but I felt like I was in a meditation studio; you could just watch and listen all day; ok not all day but it was sensationally beautiful and something we had never seen before.

Out on the back roads we went into Parry’s farm (nice place to stay) and the ford was still handling the roads ok; as we were driving through a cattle station we had to open and shut a few gates on the way; passed alot of Brahman to stop at Mambi Island on the Ord River for a flick (fish) and an early bbq tea.  This place is great for those who want to free camp along the banks to do some fishing.  There is a boat ramp and the water is quite clear, but no swimming as the salties also occupy the area!!!

Marglu Billabong - on back road to Kununurra

Wednesday 18th July 2012 Lake Argyle to Kununurra

One less toad that can kill our Australian wildlife
Good Job Luke.
All toads are collected from bins
and euthanased humanely  

Trip Meter Reading Start – 7277
Trip Meter Reading Finish – 7360
Total Km Travelled – 83km

Comments -  Luke Baker
Today we met up with Nan and Pop at the Lakeside Tourist Park in WA.  We camped right next 2 a big lagoon full of freshwater crocodiles.  I saw a water monitor stick his head up out of the water and I saw a fresh water crocodile swimming into a weed bed.  At night I caught w cain toads with my dad and put them in the cain toad box.  After that we went back to our caravan and saw 3 pairs of fresh water crocodile eyes.

Comments – Mum and Dad

This morning was a short drive for a 3 day stay in Kununurra to base ourselves and explore this area.  It’s worth taking your time in Kununurra as there is more to see than you think.  The Lakeside park was right on the lake away from town.  We were happy with the camp fees for an unpowered site of $27 per night and we had enough sunshine and battery power to run all we needed off the solar.  Today we relaxed; stocked up on food.

Kununurra Lakeside Caravan Park overlooking Kununurra Lake
Excellent clean park $27 p/n unpowered for our family of 3

Tuesday 17th July 2012 Lake Argyle (WA) –Keep River National Park

Trip Meter Reading Start – 7107

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  7277

Total Km Travelled – 170 km

Filled up Lake Argyle Village (no choice really)

$2.02 / litre; $114 for 56.44 litres

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today I went to Keep River and did two really big walks and saw lots of different rock formations.  We went and had a look at Lake Argyle’s Dam wall which is very large. 

Did you know that Lake Argyle has 21 times more water in it than Sydney Harbour?

Dad and I went fishing for silver cobbler which is good eating catfish and it sounds like a chicken when you take them out of the water.  We caught about six.  The mozzies were bad.

Comments – Mum and Dad

The Keep River National Park is back over the NT border just left past the quarantine.
We took the 2km Gurrandalng walk from the campground which weaved through the sandstone presenting magnificent views of rock formations similar to the Bungle Bungles..this is nice easy short walk particularly for kids and older species of humans to take.  The views from the mid section of the escarpment were absolutely beautiful.



Luke standing in from of the Dam wall that separates
Lake Argyle from the Ord River

The Jarnem walk to the lookout was a painful 5.2 km return walk; it wasn’t hard its just that it was in the middle of the day and 36 degrees (which is a dumb time to do a long walk); anyway it was great exercise and we coaxed Luke with the promise of an ice cream if he completed it (he wasn’t really impressed); on the way up to the top of the lookout we met two very nice, hardworking aboriginal National Park guys building stairs to the lookout (note, they were hardly breaking a sweat as I think they are used to the heat). Mark helped carry some concrete down from the top of the lookout for them (what a nice guy!)

There was a nice breeze at the top of the look out and the view was great.  My tip though is, if it’s 36 degrees, take the Gurrandlng walk (which takes 30-50 mins) and give this one a miss or do it late in the afternoon.

Driving back into Lake Argyle we explored the Ord River dam wall and picnic areas.  The water at the bottom of the dam wall was so clear and green (so inviting for a swim); glad we gave that a miss as when we viewed the river from the top there would have been about 3 or 4 2-4 meter crocs cruising on the surface.  As clear as it was, you just can’t see them.

The boys decided to fish for the arvo (hooray!) while I lazed by that magnificent pool on the escarpment, drinking Sauv Blanc accompanied by a novel by James Patterson.



View from the Dam Wall down the Ord River.

Monday 16th July 2012 Timber Creek (NT) to Lake Argyle (WA) via Zebra Rock Mine



This Boab was named after the explorer 'Gregory'.
He etched the date he was at this site in this tree 2 July 1856

Trip Meter Reading Start – 6842

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  7107

Total Km Travelled –  165 km

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today we had a look at an approxematly 1000 year old boab tree called Gregories tree named after an explorer in 1856.
We also stoped and did the Zebra Rock tour.  We also had catfish and chips for $10 bucks it was yummy.
Then we went over the WA border and stopped at a camp site.  I had a swim in a pool on the edge of a cliff overlooking Lake Argyle.

Comments – Mum and Dad

The Zebra Rock Mine is located 60 km east of Kununurra in the NT approx 11 km on Duncan Road.  The place is run by a local couple who staked a claim and have built a great family business with a cross of mining in the wet and tourism in the dry.  Unfortunately because of the increasing popularity of their amazingly cheap safari and fishing tours of Lake Argyle we were unable to wait a further 4 days to get on one.  For anyone travelling through here this is a place not to miss.  Fishing trips are $50 for 3 hours and you are guaranteed of catching catfish which are a beautiful white fleshed eating fish.  The safaris are $75 and go for 4 hours.  Best of all kids under 12 go for free.  Yep free.  So if you have got a couple of tin lids than this is a very affordable tour.  The young couple that run it are very kid and dog friendly; they provided free tea and coffee; scones for a gold coin donation; camping here is $20 and there are solar showers and toilet facilities.

Mining tours are free...don’t miss this spot.

After the mining tour and talking to a few greyer Nomads than ourselves, we were given the heads up to stop at Lake Argyle before going into Kunnunurra which was overflowing with tourists and booked out.

We drove through Quarantine and surrendered our tomatoes and into WA and took the 35 km road off the Victoria Highway (south west) into Lake Argyle. 

We ended up paying for 2 nights powered accommodation ($42 p/n including 1 child) as the pool on the edge of the escarpment and unbelievable views over Lake Argyle did it for me.  I could just look at the view all day; the colour of this Lake against the red escarpment was incredible and when you are in the pool, it’s like your in the lake; I can’t describe it, but if this is heaven, I am already there.

Luke having a swim in the Infinity Pool overlooking Lake Argyle.

Sunday 15th July 2012 Katherine to Timber Creek

Crikey! This Saltie had a broken jaw.  He is 4 metres long!

Trip Meter Reading Start – 6560

Trip Meter Reading Finish –  6842

Total Km Travelled –  282 km

Filled up Timber Creek $1.89 / litre

21.172 litres $40

Comments -  Luke Baker

We went on the cruise and we saw heaps of wallabys and heaps of salt and fresh water crocodiles.  We also saw a dead pig.  After that we had afternoon tea on a boat pontoon were their was different foods and you could have a free fish off the boat.  I caught 2 catfish.  After that we watched the sun go down over the mountains then we sped back home realy fast.

Comments – Mum and Dad



Joe's Creek....Luke not impressed with another walk.



After speaking with my mum and dad, they advised us to stop into a little place called Timber Creek which is 280 kms west of Katherine on the Victoria Highway.  Just past the Victoria River Roadhouse we ventured off the road into Joes Creek and took a 1.7km loop walk which lead us along an escarpment wall through towering Liverstonia Palms.  The view to the surrounding valley was beautiful.  The rich colours of the rock blending with the bright green vegetation of the palm and blue skies was just amazing. On the walls we found some aboriginal paintings and a large fig bush with plenty of fruit on it.

This  small and not well known walk is well worth the effort (which was minor); just wear your runners as some of the track is uneven and rocky in places.



Joes Creek -  palms, native figs, aboriginal rock paintings - Cost $FREE



Onward to a small town of 300, Timber Creek; we booked into a caravan park ($20 p/n) on an unpowered site complete with nice green grass (something we take for granted up here).   The park had a pool (very basic) but nice to have a cool dip after some walking and driving for a couple of hours.

We booked onto the Victoria River Cruise for a departure at 4pm.  Neville was our host and a character at that.  We met a couple of guys, on 62 and one of his contacts in Canada who were in the process of riding their bikes from Cairns to Broome (push bikes that is).  The guy from Canada was doing it to lose weight and had already lost 15 kgs!.....He was an inexperienced rider wanting to lose weight so he could get healthy and be a better dad for his kids (what a great guy he was; he was proud to show me some before shots of himself; he was so proud of what he had accomplished).

Now back to the cruise; yes very beautiful, more crocs that Neville called by name; so many wallabies on the side of the river (which is up to 1km in width in places); one was toying with a croc; the crocs ambush them along with the Brahmans that are brave enough to take a drink. 

Neville pulled us up at the pontoon for a much need alcoholic beverage and some hot and cold finger foods.

The sunset on the red escarpment on the background was yet again amazing!

Luke catching fish off a pontoon - Victoria River Cruise

Friday 13^th and Saturday 14th July 2012  Katherine (day 2)

Trip Meter Reading Start – 6524           

Kids make friends easy when camping.  Luke riding his bike with Mathew and Tara...Happy Days

Trip Meter Reading Finish – 6560
Trip Meter Reading Finish – 36km

Comments -  Luke Baker

Today I met some kids and we rode our bikes around the campground. We fed horses and cows. Dad took me in to look at the rare rocks shop where there were lots of types, mainly zebra rocks. We went into Katherine to do some shopping and bought a fossicking pick so I can dig for my own zebra rocks when we get there.

I was pretty crook that night so I had a real quiet day the next day and took panadol to try and get my temperature down.

My aboriginal friend, Mathew who lives at the park came to visit me.

Comments – Dad and Mum

Well I had an eventful day finishing and submitting our tax returns while the boys went into town.  Luke got pretty crook with high temperatures in the night, so we were on seizure alert and got very little sleep.  We decided to catch up on some paperwork and stay another night and he was pretty quiet the next day.   After speaking with my Mum and Dad who were a few days in front we gave Katherine Gorge cruise a miss and opted for the Timber Creek cruise on the Victoria River instead...as they say you can’t do it all.  We were a little disappointed  on how expensive it was for families to do tours at Katherine Gorge.  To hire a canoe was $45 per person for half a day....times that by 3 or 4 for a family and it becomes very unaffordable. 

Thursday 12th July 2012  Wangi (Litchfield) to Katherine

Trip Meter Reading Start – 6174         

Trip Meter Reading Finish – 6524

Total Km Travelled –  350km
Fuel Costs & Consumption
Gas $112.9/L  60.85L  $68.70 (Batchelor)            
Gas $109.9/L  61.30L  $67.37 (Katherine)

Comments -  Luke Baker

Before breakfast we went on a 2.4km walk to Cascades Falls. Then we walked down 137 steps to Florence Falls for swim. Dad and I swam out to the waterfall and jumped off, it was fun. We then walked through the rainforest and swam at other waterfalls along the way to Buley Rockholes. When we got there the where lots of people swimming in the holes. I had a swim in all of them. The best one was where you can jump off the rocks into a deep hole.
When we walked along the creek track, we walked through a monsoon forest.  There was a guage in there which measured the himidity at 50% and the temperature was 28 degress because it was real shady.  A few meters ahead, when we got out in the open around natural grasses another gauge / barometer read 34 degrees and 40% humidity.  It is amazing how trees can affect temperature and humidity levels. 
Comments – Dad and Mum
The photos say it all......we spent a full day exploring the national park before heading to Katherine to stock up.  It was 36 degrees and we walked all along these beautiful tracks, jumping in and out of natural waterways along the way to cool off...just magnificent.  Booked into Manbulloo Homestead for 3 nights, 9 km from Katherine on the Victoria Highway heading toward WA.

Can you see Luke in this picture